Restaurant Review: Borgo in Manhattan

Atmosphere
Convivial, warm and timeless. A curved, marble-topped bar by the entrance is reserved for walk-ins. Beyond that are two large, elegantly wainscoted dining rooms furnished with well-spaced, cloth-covered tables where taper candles cast a golden glow. There’s a working fireplace and wood-burning oven for maximum winter coziness, and a spacious garden for warm-weather seating.

Noise Level
Moderate.

Recommended Dishes
The seasonal, rustic Italian menu changes monthly, but some excellent perennials are the focaccia Borgo, whole roasted branzino, fennel sausage with Umbrian lentils and the wood-oven chicken. Other recommended dishes include fried delicata squash, roasted leg of lamb, citrus salad, heirloom beans, veal sweetbreads spiedini, cheese strudel.

Drinks and Wine
A thoughtful, well-priced list of mostly natural wines from France and Italy, with some special, splurge-worthy bottles. Cocktails lean to the classic; a martini cart can be wheeled right up to your table.

Price
$$$ (expensive)

Open
Daily for dinner.

Reservations
Accepted.

Wheelchair Access
The dining room is down a few steps from the street, but the staff can set up a ramp for wheelchairs. One of the restrooms is wheelchair accessible.

What the Stars Mean
Ratings range from zero to four stars. Zero is poor, fair or satisfactory. One star, good. Two stars, very good. Three stars, excellent. Four stars, extraordinary.

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